Okay, this is a cult-favourite for a reason.
For Number Three of my #makenine2022 I wanted to make sure I was sewing seasonally-appropriate garments (I have an unfortunate habit of creating things for the exact opposite weather I'm in, something something the grass is always greener...).
It's been stupid hot in Melbourne and I've been thoroughly enjoying my Nerida Hansen Smock Dress with its loose waist and big, drapey sleeves. Since airflow in clothing is a must at the moment and I don't have any other dresses like that, I thought it was the perfect to finally tackle the #m7969 which shares many of the same features.
This pattern features a faux wrap bodice with a short waist and View A, which I made, has huge sleeves gathered at the shoulders and cuff, and which have an interesting angle to the cuff just to add more droopy/drapey-ness.
To start, I highly recommend this pattern for beginner sewists! It has a looser fit and no darts, and due to all the gathers it's easy to make subtle fit adjustments.
I had heard that the M7969 run's a bit large so I was fully prepared to size down. However, I measured exactly for size S so I decided to check the fit of the paper pattern pieces before cutting them down to size and decided that the S would be best to start with - and indeed it was pretty much perfect.
I'll admit that I did tighten the bodice slightly by placing the crossover front bodice pieces further across than indicated, and I then just tightened the gathers a little to compensate. I also lengthened the skirt by a couple of inches.
I did make one other mod: pockets! The pattern does not include pockets, which is understandable given that the recommended fabrics are quite light and the waist seam is so high, so support for a pocket isn't optimal.
My pocket pattern is one I drafted an age ago. It's a standard pocket piece, an in-seam side pocket with a squared-off top that is sewn onto the waist seam. Since the waist is so short on this dress I had to cut out the longest pockets I've ever made! I chose to use a plain cotton for the pockets, because it's miles more sturdy, and just patched on some of my main fabric to conceal the pocket openings.
Now, onto the next problem with pockets: support. As I mentioned before, the fabric recommendations for the M7969 are very light, soft fabrics. I personally chose a thin, drapey rayon from Spotlight, and I knew if I added pockets and carried anything like my phone in them, I'd risk stretching the fabric and pulling the seams. I instead reinforced the side seams both sides of the pocket openings and the waist seam with thin cotton tape.
The final dress came together really quickly and I'm pleased to have already been able to take it out to show off already.
After one wear I decided it would be more comfortable to put a little stitch on the crossover front bodice to keep the two pieces together in place. And now - I'm obsessed.
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